Day 11: Amenal to Santiago de Compestela (10mi/14km)

We did it! 208 kilometers/129 miles!

That's Jessica exulting in front of our hotel, a 16th century pilgrim's hospital turned fancy - El Parador de Santiago, also known as Hostal dos Reis Catolicos (we upgraded from our typical Camino lodging). The last day we trekked through seemingly endless suburbs and made a couple of circles around Santiago's medieval streets before we walked through a dark extended arch, past a bagpiper, and into the Plaza del Obradoiro (literally, the square for the workers who built the cathedral). All peregrinos finish their journey in the square, congratulating themselves and each other as they take in the magnificence of the Catedral de Santiago.

What a cathedral it is. Unfortunately, it is being restored, and the facade is obscured by scaffolding. Still, I can imagine weary, ill pilgrims entering it and thinking this must be what heaven looks like. Gilded and golden, St. James reigns triumphant as apostle, pilgrim, and moor destroyer -  above the alter looking down at the pilgrims and on his steed (where the slain moors are now hidden behind flowers because of feared terrorist attacks).

If you look carefully at St. James' shoulders, you'll see a pair of hands. That's because traditional peregrinos end their pilgrimage by embracing the statue and thanking him for his mercy, or imploring him for his favor.

In the evening we went out with some Danes we had met on the Camino and celebrated with tapas and wine.

And here is the official certificate we received from the cathedral that says it all.

It was a great journey. Not quite the one we were expecting. John lost the guide book on the fourth day, and that seemed appropriate. We couldn't replace it, and relied on the yellow arrows and the kindness of peregrinos to guide us west. We already talk about doing our second Camino -- maybe El Norte: the northern route along the Spanish coast, or the route going south through Portugual, but probably the beginning of the Camino Frances from St Jean Pied de Port across the pyrenees to Burgos, then a bus trip across the Meseta to Leon, and ending with a walk to Astorga. Any fellow pilgrims out there?

One thing we'd change: no self-instructional messages. St Augustine and dharma talks were distractors when there is so much to notice in the rich and beautiful country. Also less stuff and no computer (and consequently no blog). Maybe just pictures as a way to focus attention and share experience. And it has been a wonderful experience, a Buen Camino.