Day 1: Ponferrada to Villafranca del Bierzo (16mi/26km)

It was 37 degrees when we stepped outside today, marino wool next to our skin, gloves on our hands. Other pilgrims (Peregrinos) appeared on the road, carrying impossibly heavy backpacks, but still able to voice hearty greetings: "Hola!" "Buen Camino" "Buenos!" The path was marked by a yellow scallop shell.

The road out of Ponferrada took us along the Sil River through suburban neighborhoods, where we encountered a number of unexpected occupants, getting their homes ready for spring.

White Stork

Soon we were in vineyards, surrounded by snow-capped mountains, the carefully pruned grape vines reminiscent of the Sorcerer's Apprentice in Fantasia.

The path was beautiful and well marked.

Spring was bursting from trees.

We arrived in Villafranca tired but pleased that we did the 16 miles with only minor aches and no blisters. Dinner consisted of "Caldo" (chicken soup with vegetables and garbanzos) and veal stew. We are testing the local wine -- simple, intense, deeply red.

Tomorrow, our host told us, "It will rain. In fact, it will rain all week." When the going gets tough . . .