At 4400 feet, the
day broke cold and misty. We headed down to the café for toastada and café con
leche, opened the door, and were assaulted by rapid fire Japanese. A tour group
was having breakfast, lined up toward the bar to get their coffee, orange juice,
hard boiled egg, and toast. We stood to the side, smiled, and said, “Cafe only,” and soon two glasses of hot café con leche were placed in front of us. We tried to pay for the picnic lunches that had been made for us, but were waved away with a smile and a Buen Camino. We gulped and left.
Sun alternated with light showers, and we crossed the Alto do San Roque and passed a monument to peregrinos past.
We began descending through villages, and passed a miniature church that couldn't seat more than a dozen people. The alter looked untouched for centuries.
Moving off the mountains, the vegetation changed, although wildflowers were still profuse. The sun finally came out -- briefly.
We spent the night in a new Auberge in Triacastela, nicely situated next to a grove of trees frequented by blue tits and blackbirds and blackcap warblers. Jessica had the binoculars out and was enthralled. We also made it to the 6:00 Peregrino mass at the local church. The words were not understandable, but the pantomime was clear.
We sat down to a Menu Peregrino dinner -- 1st plato (starter), 2nd plato (entree) + vino (a -bottle), agua (bottle) y postre (dessert)-- all for 10 euros. John had stewed beef tongue; Jessica had beefsteak. Both were regional specialties. The starter was a marvelous salad -- the Spanish can really make good salad! We finished with flan and the local soft cheese paired with homemade quince jam.
It was harder going down today than it was going up yesterday. Descent takes its toll on the legs. Jessica has developed a swollen crimson toe that looks worrisome, although its not too painful yet. I'm doing ok so far, but we're both stiff at night. Tomorrow is a relatively flat day that will take us to Sarria, the gateway for peregrinos who are only walking the last 100 km to Santiago - just enough to pick up a compostela.
We spent the night in a new Auberge in Triacastela, nicely situated next to a grove of trees frequented by blue tits and blackbirds and blackcap warblers. Jessica had the binoculars out and was enthralled. We also made it to the 6:00 Peregrino mass at the local church. The words were not understandable, but the pantomime was clear.
 |
| Scallop shell symbol of the Camino on the door of the church |
We sat down to a Menu Peregrino dinner -- 1st plato (starter), 2nd plato (entree) + vino (a -bottle), agua (bottle) y postre (dessert)-- all for 10 euros. John had stewed beef tongue; Jessica had beefsteak. Both were regional specialties. The starter was a marvelous salad -- the Spanish can really make good salad! We finished with flan and the local soft cheese paired with homemade quince jam.
It was harder going down today than it was going up yesterday. Descent takes its toll on the legs. Jessica has developed a swollen crimson toe that looks worrisome, although its not too painful yet. I'm doing ok so far, but we're both stiff at night. Tomorrow is a relatively flat day that will take us to Sarria, the gateway for peregrinos who are only walking the last 100 km to Santiago - just enough to pick up a compostela.
No comments:
Post a Comment