Most of the day was spent on the old road, in the shadow of A-6, a modern highway running from Madrid to A Coruna. Luckily, the traffic was light, and the rampaging stream below captured our attention.
We passed through villages with modern homes built adjacent to traditional structures -- animals below, living quarters above.
And numerous 18th century churches.
Farmers' fields were edged with impressive "broccoli trees."
And commanding chestnut trees.
Finally, as we headed to our "casa rural" (Guest House or B& B) we had to move to the shoulder to accommodate an umbrellaed farmer and his wife arguing with their cows. The farmer had been herding them back to the barn, whacking them with a switch. One of the cows decided she would prefer to stay in the pasture, turned and ran back, the herd following. The farmer rushed after them, so angry he didn't even reply to my "Hola" -- something that doesn't happen in Spain. He plunged into the field, and a minute later, the cows started returning. His wife joined him, and together they guided the animals back to the barn (beneath their home).
Two days in, and we are stiff. Jessica's big toe is tender. We creaked up the stairs to the room. This is a workout.
Tomorrow we climb 2000 feet in 6 1/2 miles. Shades of the Mt Tam Old Railroad Grade!
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